How to Transplant Perennials and Trees
Whether you have a new plant that you can’t wait to move into the garden or an established plant that you’d like to relocate to a new home, with a little bit of work it’s easy to transplant perennials, shrubs, and trees!
Essential Tools for Planting Perennials, Shrubs, and Trees
Helpful Tools for Planting
How to Choose a Planting Site
The best times of year to move perennials or add a new perennial plant to the garden are the spring and the fall. Established perennials with a spreading growth habit may also benefit from being divided, giving the main plant more room to grow and creating a new plant to add to a new location or share with a friend. In the spring the temperature is mild and rainfall is more common, offering a gentle adjustment for your new plant to its new home before the heat of the summer hits. In the fall, the temperature drops again and most plants have begun to slow their growth, meaning they’re less likely to be stressed by the move. If possible wait for an overcast day to transplant, as there will be more moisture in the top level of the soil and less stress on your plant.
When considering what new flower, shrub, or tree to add to your garden, pay attention to the environmental requirements that the plant will need to thrive. Hardiness zones are very important because they describe the minimum temperature a plant can withstand during the winter. Most plants will thrive within a range of zones, with an upper and lower limit. Learn your local hardiness zone and avoid buying plants that won’t thrive in your area if you’d like them to live through the winter.
It’s also essential to assess the amount of sunlight your chosen planting area receives. Full sun is considered more than six hours of light per day and is generally found in areas that are south or west-facing. Partial sun is three to five hours of light per day, including morning sun locations that are generally east-facing. Shade conditions have no direct sun or light filtered through trees, also known as dappled light. Especially in the early spring, be mindful of trees that could block the sun once they leaf out. Carefully read the tag of any plants you’re considering purchasing to ensure that you have the appropriate light conditions for your plants to thrive. Some tags use symbols such as a picture of a sun for full sun, a picture of a sun with clouds for partial sun and a picture of clouds for full shade. If there is no information on the tag, you can always ask a staff person to assist you.
Soil conditions are another important factor to consider when choosing a planting site. A consistently wet area will only be hospitable to plants that can cope with having "wet feet," such as a willow (Salix). Dry and arid areas require plants that stand up to drought conditions, like coneflower (Echinacea). If you’re uncertain, try digging a test hole to determine drainage and soil consistency. Soils mostly made up of clay or fine sediment will have poor drainage. Low-lying areas may have acceptable conditions during clear weather but become waterlogged after rain. Some plants thrive in rough rocky conditions whereas others need soft loamy soils. Amending your soil with additions like sand, compost, and lime can help to accommodate a wider range of plants but may require more oversight and upkeep over time.
How to Successfully Plant Perennials, Trees, and Shrubs
When you’ve chosen a plant and a suitable area, it’s time to dig! Dig the hole 2-3 times the diameter of the pot or the root ball, at least as deep as the soil level in the pot. Angle the edges of the hole away from the centre. If your soil is compacted, loosen it as much as possible down several inches below the bottom of the hole. Loosen the soil around the edges and inside the planting hole. When the hole is complete, gently remove your plant from its pot and loosen up the root ball of the plant. Loosen the sides of the root ball by tapping the soil and pulling the bottom roots out of the circular shape of the pot. If the bottom of the root ball is tightly wrapped or root bound and cannot be loosened, the bottom inch or two of the root ball can be cut off with clean, sharp pruning shears or a knife.
Before planting, ensure you have well-amended soil ready to backfill the hole around the roots of your plant. Mix compost or manure with the soil you removed from the hole to add nutrients, or replace it with pre-amended soil like a 3-in-1. We also recommend testing your pH before planting to ensure it’s in range for your chosen plant. Lime can be added to lower acidity and aluminum sulphate can be added to increase pH. You can read more about adjusting nutrients and pH here!
Put an inch of your amended soil mixture in the bottom of the hole and sprinkle bone meal on top where it can make contact with the root ball. Bone meal is high in phosphorus and helps the root system of the plant develop faster. In the first year of growth, root development is extremely important to provide a strong foundation for nutrient uptake and stress tolerance in the years to come. You can also add Myke to the planting hole to further support the root system of your plant and increase its health and resilience. Some gardeners also recommend watering the soil at the bottom of the hole before planting to ensure there’s lots of moisture for the roots to take in.
At last, you’re now ready to gently place your plant in the hole and backfill with soil halfway. Lightly tamp the soil in place to remove any air pockets. Finish backfilling around your plant and lightly tamp the soil again. Water in the plant thoroughly to help remove any remaining air pockets, and to settle and level the soil even if the ground or plant is wet. Watering well is extremely important for success with transplanting.
Consider staking your plant if it’s in a windy area or the shrub or tree itself is very tall. When placing the stakes, make sure that they are not so close that the root ball is punctured by the ends of the stakes. Use two to four stakes with one on each side of the plant, making sure that one of the four is on the windward side. You can purchase wire ties or tree guards that can be wrapped around the sturdy main trunk and attached to the stake with wire or rope. There are also kits available if you do not want to buy the components individually.
How to Care for Newly Transplanted Perennials, Trees, and Shrubs
During the first year after a perennial is planted, it will be dependent on you for water while the root system is getting established. It’s always better to water thoroughly and deeply than to do frequent, short periods of watering. Light watering encourages a shallow root system that makes your plant less able to take up moisture and nutrients from deep in the soil and less tolerant to drought. The hotter and drier it is outside, the more water your plant will need. For easy watering, we recommend setting up a soaker hose around or near the base of your plant to deliver water to the roots. After the first year, your plant should have established deep roots and be less reliant on you for supplemental watering unless your area experiences a period of drought.
You may want to mulch around the base of your new plant to help retain water and suppress weeds. Be careful that the mulch does not touch the stem of the plant, as this can lead to excess moisture retention and problems like fungal infection or rot. Be mindful of mulch, especially dyed mulch, during extended hot and dry periods and keep it well watered to avoid potential fire hazards.
| Return to Tips & Inspiration |